Waves Surf Weekend Trip

Matty and I went on or surf trip this past weekend. We got picked up on Friday evening and rolled into surf camp around midnight where we spent the night for an early rise and our first surf lesson. Below is the outside of the cabin we slept in (similar to what I would call a hunting camp) with nothing but a room full of bunk beds a loft and a couple of bathrooms. 

 

The view from our cabin back to the main building where they have somewhat of a dining hall/bar. Again I would say it's very similar to a hunting camp back at home. All the land surrounding the camp is  farm land, both old and some still being used.

We got up for an 8a.m. breakfast and about an hour ride out to our first surf spot. We didn't party too hard on Friday night so it wasn't that bad but Sunday would be a whole different story.

The fist day was also extremely rainy and cloudy the whole time, I was actually even pretty cold for the first time since I've got here but they have you always surf in wetsuits to actually usually protect you from the sun. Apparently even though everyone who comes to Australia worries about sharks, crocodiles, spiders and jellyfish and any of the hundreds of dangerous animals, the sun is actually the number one killer. Because the ozone has been depleted so much over Australia the sun is actually far more severe and it's no joke how you can actually feel the sun burning you if you don't make sure to put on sun block all day.






So we finally arrived at our fist surf spot. It was called Crowdy Bay and according to the instructors it was perfect conditions to learn to surf. It was actually pretty funny because before any of us got out on the water you could tell we all thought the waves looked kind of pathetic and there was going to be no way we could surf on those tiny waves.

I actually wasn't able to get pictures of people surfing or many actions shots this day because like I said before it was pretty bad weather all day long. The view all around us was still pretty amazing though. The craziest part of this day was that, of course after we went surfing here, the instructor told us that it was the spot where a man was attacked by a great white the week before. Yea you read that right, a great white. I had heard about the attack the week before but I had no idea it was actually at the spot we were at. The instructors said the guy was kind of asking for it though because he went out surfing at night and I guess thats feeding time. We always came in by 4:30.

So after a long day of surfing we went back to the camp and had a well deserved meal. Surfing is actually quite a bit more tiring than you might expect and we weren't even in very serious waves this day. It's actually about 80% paddling and only 20% surfing when you're out there. And that's only if your able to stand up. Which I was able to because they start you out on pretty easy boards to almost guarantee everyone getting up at least a couple of times. 

Getting ready for the dinner and enjoying a few jugs of cold beer.

And the partying begins. One of the most dysfunctional flip cup games I've ever been a part of.

Matty and I after being the last to survive a little adult version of musical chairs. We'll just say it ended in a dance competition and this was the shot we were awarded with one of the instructors

This is only 10:30 at night and the aussies started throwing toilet paper and frisbees and really anything they could pick up across the room. Broke a fan in the process but it turned out to be a great start to even better night

This lovely woman is the owner of the place. You can make your judgement calls about her because everything you may be thinking is probably right haha. She's seriously one of the coolest people I've met though. She really just wanted everyone to have a great time. 

And we'll end the party here. If you can't really see what's going on, one of the aussie instructors decided to light the TP that was spinning around the fan on fire. Don't worry though the place didn't burn down because he put it out with alcohol....

So finally off to the next day of surfing. And as I said before, the hangovers were a bit more serious this day but the weather was amazing to say the least.

One of the most beautiful beaches I think I've been to since coming here. It was extremely private with only maybe 5 other people there with us the whole day

Would absolutely love to live in t his house. There are so many places like this by all the beaches but this is definitely one of my favorites. I can only imagine the views they get to wake up to every morning. Even though I'm sure whoever  owns it only uses it as a vacation home. 

The combination of fighting off the headaches from the night before and the extremely rough surf had us beached fairly early

Even the instructors weren't surfing for too long (middle of the pic in the blue). He was basically our head instructor for the weekend and when I asked him about his job he said he only does this during the summer. For the other about 8 months out of the year he's an aluminum miner and pulls in about $4,000 a week! You be the judge from my pictures but having that for a job and being able to do all this throughout the summer seems like a pretty good life to me.

Headed up for a little lunch after the struggle in the surf

One of the instructors headed out after lunch to try and catch a couple good waves. 

Some of us giving it one more shot after lunch. The waves we're so intense though you actually just couldn't get out far enough to catch any good waves. It was still a great day to enjoy the sun and the beautiful beach though. 

One of the instructors waiting for the right wave. I was actually watching him for about 30 minutes trying to get a good shot of him riding one of the massive waves when I noticed something in the water right next to him. It actually turned out to be a school of dolphins swimming literally only feet away from him. There were about 5 just playing in the waves and you could see them every time a wave began to break. 

I promise I tried like hell to get a picture because it was really amazing but it was tough to get them at the right time and be looking at the right spot. 

And actually only moments after this shot the instructor just rode a wave in like a boogey board out of nowhere. Turns out he saw a huge fin of a shark and just got the hell out of the water. Apparently they see them all the time and you're just supposed to be aware of your surrounding and not panic. Try telling me not to panic with a great white swimming at my feet though.... Pretty unlikely

Pretty much symbolizes how we were all feeling by Sunday afternoon. It had been a long weekend but was absolutely awesome and Matty is even planning on buying a board to keep surfing for the rest of our time here. It really was a ton of fun. 

And so we packed up and rode back to camp. Another successful and awesome trip done, and keep following because I know there will be more to come. Hope you're still enjoying and I'll try my best to keep updating whenever possible. Missing you all back at home but loving life in Australia. Will have more soon.